Hows it going everyone. I've been reading this forum for 3 or 4 months, an decided to join and share the details of my project c900. I'm also on saablink so i have probably met/talked to a few people on this board before. I'll also be at spring time in sweden in a week and the maine forest rally.
Anyway this is mostly new territory for me, aside from doing all the work on my 9000 and fixing up a spg I've never striped down a car and really seen the inner workings of it before. So this will no doubt be a good learning experience. On the to-do list is learning how to weld, remove the engine/tranny, and replace/rebuild a transmission, and learning how to adjust handling characteristics.
The car is in very good shape, it is a 1991 c900 turbo. I purchased it for a good price because reverse and 5th gear are gone, and 4th usually grinds. Other then that there isn't much wrong with it. After taking out the rear seats I found a lot of shattered glass, so the rear hatch must have broken at one point. But there does not appear to be any frame damage. The sound deadening was completely water soaked, so that went in the trash. Lets see, one of the headlights has alot of water in it, so I either need a new one or find a way to dry it out.
Here are some pictures
c900 beside my daily driver:
engine bay:
front suspension:
I'll have more pictures of the inside once I can get to a computer that will upload more pictures in a reasonable amount of time..
One question I have is is it possible to adjust the gas pedal so it is on the same plane as the brake and clutch? Will make for easier heel toe shifting.
c900 project rally/rallycross car
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That looks like a really nice 900. Whites a nice color to start with for a rally car since its usually the color people paint the inside anyway. Just keep in mind there are licensing restrictions now and you won't be able to start off rallying in a turbo. You have to start off in a 2wd non turbo car. It would be fine for rally-x though (obviously) or you can just swap in an NA for your first 6 events.
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Damn, I didnt know about that licensing requirement. Could I de-tune/unhook the turbo? I guess that would probably make the car slower then its n/a counterpart.
I'll look into the shift rod, unfortunately the bentley manual isnt at my house right now, hopefully saabnet has some information. Anyone know if the gas pedal can be raised a bit to be on level with the brake and clutch?
I'll look into the shift rod, unfortunately the bentley manual isnt at my house right now, hopefully saabnet has some information. Anyone know if the gas pedal can be raised a bit to be on level with the brake and clutch?
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- Posts: 33
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 12:20 pm
- Number of Saabs currently owned: 0
- Location: around Boston
Ok, I guess that means I need a 91-93 S even more. As for the shifter alignment is this what you ment?
http://townsendimports.com/Web/transmis ... dj.htm#900 I'm skeptical its the shift linkage, but I'll give it a shot.
http://townsendimports.com/Web/transmis ... dj.htm#900 I'm skeptical its the shift linkage, but I'll give it a shot.
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- Posts: 56
- Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 11:52 am
- Number of Saabs currently owned: 0
- Location: Washington, DC
Fieldsc wrote:I'll look into the shift rod, unfortunately the bentley manual isnt at my house right now, hopefully saabnet has some information. Anyone know if the gas pedal can be raised a bit to be on level with the brake and clutch?
Don't bother looking, I'll tell you how - it's a terribly simple device The shift rod has this pin at the bottom - if it is even slightly out of adjustment, it can make the gears seem notchier, and if bad can commonly make 5th and reverse hard to find...just take out the rod (pop off shifter boot, three torx screws) and measure the distance from the end of the tube to the end of the pin that resides in it. It should be 22mm (as exact as you can get it), give or take. The haynes says it should be longer (24 or 26 mm IIRC), but this is wrong - I've tried both and the bentley is most certainly correct. To adjust, pop out the split pin and rotate the end pin in/out (don't thread it too far out, though, it is a huge pain to get back in).
Hopefully that's your problem. Happy hunting!
Andrew
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- Posts: 33
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 12:20 pm
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- Location: around Boston
Ok just re-aligned it. It was waaay off target, around 13mm. So I unscrewed it brought it back to around 22mm (no calipers for a sure measurement) and I still have the same problem. Reverse wants to go in, but just grinds and makes a lot of noise.
On a side note does anyone in massachusetts's have a c900 n/a engine kicking around that I can buy? Looks like the engine and transmission are going to have to come out anyway..
On a side note does anyone in massachusetts's have a c900 n/a engine kicking around that I can buy? Looks like the engine and transmission are going to have to come out anyway..
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