Very cool Dennis. We talked about this a while ago when I was over at your place. The graphics certainly help to fully understand the procedure. Smart move on the isopropyl and it's lower surface tension. I remember measuring hundreds of contact angles with a goniometer to determine the wettability of different coatings on different substrates.

Stephan

Status 08-20-11
Stripped down the block and took it, crank, and new pistons to the machine shop. Hot tanked the block, decked, bore .50mm over and honed. Polished the crank. The conn rods and crank where previously balanced. The new Mahle pistons wrist pins and ring all matched within a gram scale error.


Typical oil muck, the deck had copper spray. That is not rust.

You can see the watermark from the first attempt at an overhaul. Used a water based degreaser and it was not fully submerged, thus the corrosion line.


Freshly machined and had its final hot tank. A bit of oxidation. Stainless wire brush post this picture.

Did the ring gap work. Numbered to match the corresponding cylinders. A bit AR but, going to all the trouble to file, why not?



Tomorrow's task is to paint the block. Cleaned the gun today. Got on some epoxy primer, and red urethane topcoat lined up.

Good stuff Dennis. The bores look pretty good again. From looking at the pictures before and after I would have thought the marks in the walls would have been slightly deeper than 0.5mm. Seems they weren't so that's good. Did you use the machine shop you went to before?

turbo stephan wrote:Good stuff Dennis. The bores look pretty good again. From looking at the pictures before and after I would have thought the marks in the walls would have been slightly deeper than 0.5mm. Seems they weren't so that's good. Did you use the machine shop you went to before?

Yes, it turned out well. The 1 overbore and hone was enough to get out the marks.
The first go around I used Autosport in Seattle, but I did not have any block work done. They balanced the rotating bits, conn rods and pistons.
Used Action Machine this time. I've used them to do some flywheel lightening and balance work. They do nice work and bonus are about 10 minutes from the house.

All this talk about a clean, white engine compartments it was time to clean mine. The oil blow by made it a pebble/dirt magnet.

squaab99t wrote:Yes, it turned out well. The 1 overbore and hone was enough to get out the marks.
The first go around I used Autosport in Seattle, but I did not have any block work done. They balanced the rotating bits, conn rods and pistons.
Used Action Machine this time. I've used them to do some flywheel lightening and balance work. They do nice work and bonus are about 10 minutes from the house.

That's great. I might get back to you about them in the future when I finally get my 900 hatchback or 99 to work on. The SPG they had listed here was not good at all so I thought I don't rush it.

Thumbs up for going local . Keeps the community happy and helps our economy.

Not really engine build, but related since I removed the motor mounts with the engine. The passenger motor mount needed a little love. Stress fracture, about 3/4" long.






Also replaced the passenger tripod bearing. One of the three bearing races was not being retained and needle bearings would drop out. You can imagine what a free needle bearing would do if it were floating inside the tripod cup.

Prepped the block and painted with a two part epoxy sealer primer and a enamel topcoat.

My ghetto paint booth.


Epoxy in white.



Gray topcoat.




Remove the masking before the paint fully dries for nice clean lines.


Once it is dry, time to start putting the parts back...

A little progress. Crank and pistons installed. Surprising this takes some time to do so you do not get the parts out of sequence and score any of the journals or cylinder walls.

Dennis,
So which pistons did you end up using?
That dish looks a lot like the stock 8V APC pistons (8.5cr) I used in my project.

john

99Super wrote:Dennis,
So which pistons did you end up using?
That dish looks a lot like the stock 8V APC pistons (8.5cr) I used in my project.

john

I end up using stock 16v turbo pistons that are one oversize. No change in C/R.

Got a chance to do a bit more work.
Installed the starter plate.



Timing cover, water pump, and crank position sensor hardware.

MMmmm.... full sequential....


Did you make the pulley and CPS mount, or buy them?

DrewP wrote:MMmmm.... full sequential....


Did you make the pulley and CPS mount, or buy them?

The CPS is only part of the equation to go full sequential. I still use the hall sensor of the dist to tell the ECU if I'm on the compression or exhaust stroke.

My design and prototyping. I machined the parts via emachine. I created bolt on kits with instructions and all the fasteners to make it plug and play. All told I made 25 kits and they are gone. Might be time for another run?



http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album1028?page=1

Since I am using a 9000 flywheel the TDC markings do not line up. Used a dial indicator and a scribe to find true TDC.


Head and timing chain installed