86 900 Street / Track Project

[Luke]

In my 99 I've screwed eyelet mounts from a race supplier right into the existing seat belt mount nuts. They were standard inch-size fittings on the car.

Yep, they are 7/16-20 which is the standard for all seat belts it seems. Just had to order some when I put new harnesses in the car. I also use the stock thread holes on the inner mounts, they have a really beefy plate below.

[SwedeSport]

My upper shoulder harness just wraps around the harness bar and is held with a buckle of sorts. I used the outter rear bolt hole (where the stock belt attaches to the floor) with an eye bolt. I drilled a hole in the exhaust tunnel, and Im putting the other lap belt there. Using an eye hook then the big washer, and a 1 x 2 nut plate glued to the back. I would think its better to try to keep the length of the harnesses consistent to equalize the forces.
Up under the seat Im doing the same thing, but with 2 of them about 6 inches apart for the anti submarine crotch belts. Im using M&R harnesses.

[SwedeSport]

The SCCA scrutineer came by on Monday, and informed me that he did not like the way I was attaching the harness. So now with 2 weeks till the event, Im re-engineering how they are installed. Its somewhat of a setback, since I had already made progress on the install.

The battery relocation is falling together, with a few minor issues involving insulating the terminals on the cut off switch. Found some tidy rubber boots thru Pegasus auto racing supply. Those will cover the terminals on the switch, and another boot for on the battery terminal itself. Ill shrink tube all the ends, and use convoluted tubing to protect any exposed wiring. The mounting plan has been accepted so Ill finish welding that up. Hope to put a DONE stamp on that this weekend.

I need to finish the install of the window net this weekend too. I had a choice between a window net and arm restraints and chose the net. The driver door bar needs some final welding, and a coat of paint.

Still waiting for Safety Devices to get stock in the door bar kit. I wanted to add a cross bar between the A pillars under the dash. Its not totally necessary to run, but for my own peace of mind. I found one in stock at a UK distributor, but they want 365 bucks to send it to the states. Thats pretty ridiculous. Guess I wont be thanking Safety Devices if I make the podium.

Thankfully the other mechanicals are in good shape already, and other than a little oil seepage at the valve guides I am ready to go, although I may check my valve clearances again before the event. Ill go over the powertrain and give it a good once over to be safe.

[Jordan]

so what didn't they like?

[SwedeSport]

He did not like the angle that the harnesses would be in while the seat was in my driving position, (too far back). He also did not like the way my sub straps would attach. He wasnt crazy about me using the original seat belt holes. The backing plates I was gonna put on the backside of the sheet metal were too small.

Im gonna eliminate the eyebolts, and plate the floor with 1/8 inch steel, up the side of the sill at the rocker all in all about a 4 inch by 8 inch plate, then attach a 1/4 inch by 4 inch tab coming vertically from the floor, and boxed into the rocker with 1/4 inch plate. The belts are clip in style, so Ill drill out the top of the tab for the lap belt, and drill a second hole forward of that for the sub belts. Ill bring the sub belt thru the side of the seat, instead of thru the front of the seat.

[Jordan]

If you were using the original seat belt bolt holes the backing plates on them are like 3/8" or 1/2" thick.. I don;t see why anyone would have a problem with that. Seems like a lot of extra metal...but whatever works.

[Luke]

That seems like the most overbuilt seat belt mounts ever. Like Jordan said the stock mounts have a really thick tab on the back.... worst case scenario a 2"x3" .125 plate with a 1/2" hole welded over top would give a little more surface area.

I hate to even think about what type of forces your body would be experiencing to blow out the factory mounts, let alone ones with a little plating on the top.

But alas, its up to some scrutineer that gets jollies from making people overbuild things.

And dont forget to stamp all your bolts Grade 8!

He did not like the angle that the harnesses would be in while the seat was in my driving position, (too far back). He also did not like the way my sub straps would attach. He wasnt crazy about me using the original seat belt holes. The backing plates I was gonna put on the backside of the sheet metal were too small.

Im gonna eliminate the eyebolts, and plate the floor with 1/8 inch steel, up the side of the sill at the rocker all in all about a 4 inch by 8 inch plate, then attach a 1/4 inch by 4 inch tab coming vertically from the floor, and boxed into the rocker with 1/4 inch plate. The belts are clip in style, so Ill drill out the top of the tab for the lap belt, and drill a second hole forward of that for the sub belts. Ill bring the sub belt thru the side of the seat, instead of thru the front of the seat.

[SwedeSport]

Whatever it takes to make the grid at this point. I agree that its overkill. my floor is a bit rusty causing some of his concern about attaching to it. Alot of the issue is that I need to keep the interior mostly intact, otherwise Im pushed out of Street Mod, and into Modified. I have already fallen out of ITB with the new motor. So in order to not cut up the interior too much, I need to do some creative overbuilding. To satisfy his desire for a safe car, and my desire to not hack it up. The way he suggested would require replumbing or bending the shit out of the brake lines to make room for his mounts.

[Jordan]

Luke pointed me to the schroth website and I found this PDF which looks pretty helpful.

[SwedeSport]

Well, doesn't look like I'll be ready for the Hillclimb. Susquehanna Motorsports dropped the ball and couldnt get my harnesses in time, and the window net is gonna take weeks to get. I still need fabricate the mounts for the harness, but have not begun cutting anything. I am trying to retain as much interior as possible. I have to be creative to get the harness anchors in the spot that the scrutineer wants to see them, and at the same time dont want to butcher my interior to do so. Needed to have the harness to mock stuff up and measure.

Is this a common problem? I have talked to several race parts shops, and they all are experiencing problems getting anything in a timely fashion. Some bullshit about racing manufacturers shutting down production to save money.

Ill still be at the event, but looks like Ill be wearing a reflective yellow vest instead of a driving suit.

Im kinda bummed out.

[Jordan]

Do you *need* the harnesses and window nets? I thought you could run close to a stock setup in most hillclimbs... just drive a little slower.

[SwedeSport]

People have been killed at PHA events, drivers and spectators. So these guys are sticklers for the safety prep. Next year the HANS device is mandatory. I could have chosen arm restraints, but went with the window net.


I ordered all this stuff 6-8 weeks ago, and this will be the 3rd or 4th time I have called to get a status report, and never got a call back. Im kinda pissed about the service I have been getting from these race parts suppliers. Susquehanna Motorsports is one of the main event sponsors, and they cant supply parts in time for the event they sponsor, thats kinda sad.
Im sitting here trying to spend a Butt-Load of money and they can't fill my order.

[Luke]

Do you want to borrow my harness set for the weekend? I also have a window net that I bring in case a window gets broken, its like 4 years old though, I dont think they expire though?

[SwedeSport]

Thanks Luke,

I dont have enough time to get this together for the event. My last chance at any real fabrication was dashed when my stuff didnt arrive by Friday. Sat and Sunday were my last fab days to get anything burned in. Nearly the whole interior has to go back in, the battery cutoff wiring needs finished. The ENTIRE cage is out of the car.

Even with a SAAB farm I couldnt get this thing together in time to report to tech Friday, but I do appreciate the offers of help.

I have been keeping this goal in sight for 10 years at least. Having to wait one more event to pull into the beams is not a huge setback.

[SwedeSport]

Well, the Pagoda Hillclimb was this past weekend, and I was totally bummed about not making the grid. But I sucked it up and went up to work a corner and try to be sportsmanlike. I managed to get assigned to turn 6 (dubbed "OH SHIT"). Perhaps the most dangerous corner on the hill. There is an optical illusion that happens here causing people to either brake too early or way too late. All the guys that have run the hill were scaring me with their banter about this corner. Some of the faster cars are hitting 120+ coming thru this section. I managed to watch everyone negotiate this spot to get a feel for the line. Im not so scared as everyone tried to make me. Ill just aim for the mossy side of the trees if Im gonna go off course, Its the closest thing to safer barriers in hillclimbing.

There were several high speed spinouts, and a few crashes this weekend, but noone was hurt and most of the damage to the cars is repairable. As stated before, Im gonna take it easy with the tan 900 since it is my daily driver. I hope to just go out there and get the feel for it and maybe give it 75 or 80%. I want to do this without incident, so I can take the rookie stripes off before the end of the season. 3 incident free events will get me my novice license.

I am doing an autox in Philly, and one in Reading PA before the Duryea Hillclimb. Same hill, just the second half of the hill is included in this one. I also plan to do the Jefferson Circuit at Summit Point. And then there are 2 more autox's before the winter. Workin on getting seat time!